Places, Locations

Asifabad

In 1977 Asifabad was the administrative capital of Asifabad District of Andhra Pradesh State. However, since the creation of Telangana State, the town is now that capital of Kumram Bheem District. In those days it was the main market and government centre. Here were the  ashram high schools.

A formal image of the students at the Government Boys High School.
A formal image of the students at the Government Boys High School.
The Government Girls High School hostel in Asifabad. The local district headquarters capital.
The Government Girls High School hostel in Asifabad. The local district headquarters capital.
The Government Ashram School for boys and girls in Asifabad.
The Government Ashram School for boys and girls in Asifabad.
The Government Tribal Girls High School hostel in Asifabad town. The local district headquarters capital.
The Government Tribal Girls High School hostel in Asifabad town. The local district headquarters capital.
The hostel for boys at the Asifabad Tribal Boys Ashram School.
The hostel for boys at the Asifabad Tribal Boys Ashram School.
Gandhi Chowk, the main high road and shopping street in Asifabad 1n 1976.
Gandhi Chowk, the main high road and shopping street in Asifabad 1n 1976.
This is a view of Jhoreghat village in 1979. It was the home of Kumram Bhimu in 1937, when he led the Babhijeri Uprising. He has now become the epic hero of the Raj Gond people.
This is a view of Jhoreghat village in 1979. It was the home of Kumram Bhimu in 1937, when he led the Babhijeri Uprising. He has now become the epic hero of the Raj Gond people.
Jhoreghat village in 1979. The home of Kumram Bhimu, who has now become the epic hero of the Raj Gond people after he lead the armed Babhijeri Uprising in 1937 against the Nizam of Hyderabad’s government.
Jhoreghat village in 1979. The home of Kumram Bhimu, who has now become the epic hero of the Raj Gond people after he lead the armed Babhijeri Uprising in 1937 against the Nizam of Hyderabad’s government.

Jhoreghat. Site of the Babijheri Uprising in 1937.

This is ancestral home of Kumram Bhimu, who has now become the epic hero of the Raj Gond people. The Government has now built a large museum and cenotaph to Kumram Bhimu here. He was the leader of a tribal uprising against the Nizam of Hyderabad’s government that resulted from gross exploitation by local government officials and maltreatment and corruption by Forest Department officers in 1937.

Bat cave near Guddipet

A renowned cave near Rompalli village. Many Raj Gonds assume that this is the site of the cave in which their mythical hero ‘Pahandi Kupar Lingal‘ took them to discover their Great God, ‘Persa Pen‘. It is the site of many local ceremonies to various deities. The cave is in a limestone cliff and is the roost of thousands on bats and is unpleasant to enter.

The entrance to the renowned bat cave near Rompalli village. Many Raj Gonds assume that this is the site of the cave in which their mythical hero 'Pahandi Kupar Lingal' took them to discover their Great God, 'Persa Pen'.
The entrance to the renowned bat cave near Rompalli village. Many Raj Gonds assume that this is the site of the cave in which their mythical hero 'Pahandi Kupar Lingal' took them to discover their Great God, 'Persa Pen'.
A party of us from Rompalli village entering the renowned cave nearby. Many Raj Gonds assume that this is the site of the cave in which their mythical hero Pahandi Kupar Lingal took them to discover their Great God, Persa Pen.
A party of us from Rompalli village entering the renowned cave nearby. Many Raj Gonds assume that this is the site of the cave in which their mythical hero Pahandi Kupar Lingal took them to discover their Great God, Persa Pen.
A renowned cave near Rompalli village. Many Raj Gonds assume that this is the site of the cave in which their mythical hero Pahandi Kupar Lingal took them to discover their Great God, Persa Pen. It is the site of many local ceremonies to various deities. The cave is in a limestone cliff and is the roost of thousands on bats and is very unpleasant to enter,
A renowned cave near Rompalli village. Many Raj Gonds assume that this is the site of the cave in which their mythical hero Pahandi Kupar Lingal took them to discover their Great God, Persa Pen. It is the site of many local ceremonies to various deities. The cave is in a limestone cliff and is the roost of thousands on bats and is very unpleasant to enter,
This village was my favourite resting place on the 13 mile bullock cart ride from Ginnedhari to Asifabad.
This village was my favourite resting place on the 13 mile bullock cart ride from Ginnedhari to Asifabad.

Chelmela

This was my favourite stopping place on the 13 mile walk from Ginnedhari to Asifabad town.  It has now been flooded by the recent Vatti Vagu Reservoir. The villagers have been resettled in a non-tribal area. They have lost their protected tribal land.

Chikli Pateda

Another of my favourite resting places on the 13 mile bullock cart ride to Asifabad town.

Chikli Pateda village.
Chikli Pateda village.
On the banks of the Vatti Vagu River, just south of Asifabad on the road that I always took to Ginnedhari.
On the banks of the Vatti Vagu River, just south of Asifabad on the road that I always took to Ginnedhari.
On the banks of the Vatti Vagu River, just south of Asifabad on the road that I always took to Ginnedhari.
On the banks of the Vatti Vagu River, just south of Asifabad on the road that I always took to Ginnedhari.

Chirakonta

Another of my resting places on the road from Ginnedhari to Asifabad, where there was a nice tea stall. It has now become a market town with Hindu owned shops, a Hanuman temple and a Vetinary Hospital.

Edlapaad Thoti village

This is a renowned village of Thoti minstrels. It is 5 miles  southeast of Ginnedhari. It was the home of one of the most famous bards of the Raj Gonds of Ginnedhari, called Vedma Ramu Thoti. He knew all the epic Raj Gond mythical stories and was one of my best informants.

All the Thoti minstrel bards of Edlapaad village 5 miles southeast of Ginnedhari gathered for this photo. This is the village of the famous Thoti minstrel Vedma Ramu who fought for the Raj Gond Babijheri uprising in 1937.
All the Thoti minstrel bards of Edlapaad village 5 miles southeast of Ginnedhari gathered for this photo. This is the village of the famous Thoti minstrel Vedma Ramu who fought for the Raj Gond Babijheri uprising in 1937.
This is a family of Thoti bards and traditional minstrels who live by memorising the clan myths of their Raj Gond patrons. They are a Telugu speaking people who have adopted the clan structure of their patrons.
This is a family of Thoti bards and traditional minstrels who live by memorising the clan myths of their Raj Gond patrons. They are a Telugu speaking people who have adopted the clan structure of their patrons.
THE PRIMARY SCHOOL in 1976. The school children being served a free cooked lunch.
THE PRIMARY SCHOOL in 1976. The school children being served a free cooked lunch.
THE PRIMARY SCHOOL in 1976. The headmaster overseeing the free lunch for all the children. This was one of the most significant reasons for sending children to school.
THE PRIMARY SCHOOL in 1976. The headmaster overseeing the free lunch for all the children. This was one of the most significant reasons for sending children to school.
A formal photo of the staff and pupils the village primary school in 1976. This was the only school at this period. It had been started under a project of Christoph von Fürer Haimendorf in 1945. The teaching was in the Gondi language. And the teachers were all Raj Gond tribals.
A formal photo of the staff and pupils the village primary school in 1976. This was the only school at this period. It had been started under a project of Christoph von Fürer Haimendorf in 1945. The teaching was in the Gondi language. And the teachers were all Raj Gond tribals.
After school boys have been served their free lunch, the girls line up for their meal.
After school boys have been served their free lunch, the girls line up for their meal.
The primary level children are being taught basic literacy, reading and writing the Telugu alphabet. In the 1970s education was through rote learning. Here the boy in the front are chanting the alphabet. Elder sisters, who have taken them to school, look on. Others, who are not going to school, peer through the window.
The primary level children are being taught basic literacy, reading and writing the Telugu alphabet. In the 1970s education was through rote learning. Here the boy in the front are chanting the alphabet. Elder sisters, who have taken them to school, look on. Others, who are not going to school, peer through the window.
A group photo of the students and some of their parents, in front of the school’s kitchen hut. In the centre of the back row, in the large turban, is the village headman, Atram Lachu.
A group photo of the students and some of their parents, in front of the school’s kitchen hut. In the centre of the back row, in the large turban, is the village headman, Atram Lachu.
A group photo of the primary school students and their single master, a Raj Gond resident of Rompalli. This is the village of my researcher Ada Jalpatirao. A few of the children’s parent are also there.
A group photo of the primary school students and their single master, a Raj Gond resident of Rompalli. This is the village of my researcher Ada Jalpatirao. A few of the children’s parent are also there.
Michael Yorke, the author, in a formal photo with the masters of the Ginnedhari Primary School, who are all Raj Gond tribals.
Michael Yorke, the author, in a formal photo with the masters of the Ginnedhari Primary School, who are all Raj Gond tribals.
Indian National Independence Day in 1976. Held at the village school, it is an aspect of their education to include these tribal people in a sense of national identity. They have garlanded a portrait of Mahatma Gandhi, their national hero, who campaigned for independence from colonial rule and create Indian self-rule.
Indian National Independence Day in 1976. Held at the village school, it is an aspect of their education to include these tribal people in a sense of national identity. They have garlanded a portrait of Mahatma Gandhi, their national hero, who campaigned for independence from colonial rule and create Indian self-rule.
Independence Day celebration at Ginnedhari School in, 1976. This annual event is held at the government school. It is a significant event to include these minority tribal people in the feeling of having an Indian national identity. The village elders are there. Here they are saluting the national flag as they sing the Indian National anthem ‘Vande Mataram’.
Independence Day celebration at Ginnedhari School in, 1976. This annual event is held at the government school. It is a significant event to include these minority tribal people in the feeling of having an Indian national identity. The village elders are there. Here they are saluting the national flag as they sing the Indian National anthem ‘Vande Mataram’.
INDIAN NATIONAL INDEPENDENCE DAY< 1976. Indian National Independence Day, 1976, held at the village school in Ginnedhari. The school master talks about the history of gaining self-rule. They have garlanded a photograph of Mahatma Gandhi, the hero of winning their independence from British rule.
INDIAN NATIONAL INDEPENDENCE DAY< 1976. Indian National Independence Day, 1976, held at the village school in Ginnedhari. The school master talks about the history of gaining self-rule. They have garlanded a photograph of Mahatma Gandhi, the hero of winning their independence from British rule.
After the annual Indian National Independence Day at the village school in 1976, they process through the village to the government administrative panchayat office.
After the annual Indian National Independence Day at the village school in 1976, they process through the village to the government administrative panchayat office.
Indian National Independence Day, 1976, held at the village school. They compleying the celebration by saluting the Indian National flag.
Indian National Independence Day, 1976, held at the village school. They compleying the celebration by saluting the Indian National flag.
Indian National Independence Day, 1976. Atram Lachu Patel, the village headman, prepares two enthroned portraits of Mahatma Gandhi, the hero and founder of the Congress Party, and Indira Gandhi, the Prime Minister and daughter of Jawaharlal Nehru under the national flag outside the village's government panchayat office.
Indian National Independence Day, 1976. Atram Lachu Patel, the village headman, prepares two enthroned portraits of Mahatma Gandhi, the hero and founder of the Congress Party, and Indira Gandhi, the Prime Minister and daughter of Jawaharlal Nehru under the national flag outside the village's government panchayat office.
National Independence Day, 1976. The village gathers outside the government council panchayat office as the national flag is raised. The two-storey stone house behind is the home of Atram Lachu Patel, the village headman and wealthiest family in Ginnedhari.
National Independence Day, 1976. The village gathers outside the government council panchayat office as the national flag is raised. The two-storey stone house behind is the home of Atram Lachu Patel, the village headman and wealthiest family in Ginnedhari.
A view of Ginnedhari from the north. Note the large two-storey masonry house of the village headman, Atram Lachu Patel. His ancestors founded the village and the family’s patriarch is the village headman. This gives him many economic and landowning advantages. They are the wealthiest family in Ginnedhari.
A view of Ginnedhari from the north. Note the large two-storey masonry house of the village headman, Atram Lachu Patel. His ancestors founded the village and the family’s patriarch is the village headman. This gives him many economic and landowning advantages. They are the wealthiest family in Ginnedhari.
The ancestral tomb of the Atram clan. They are the founding clan of Ginnedhari and their senior male always inherits the village headmanship.
The ancestral tomb of the Atram clan. They are the founding clan of Ginnedhari and their senior male always inherits the village headmanship.
The graveyard and monumental tombs to the southeast of Ginnedhari.
The graveyard and monumental tombs to the southeast of Ginnedhari.
The Panchayat office in the main street of Ginnedhari. This is where all the important political and administrative meetings are held. Note the loudspeaker for announcing communal events and meetings.
The Panchayat office in the main street of Ginnedhari. This is where all the important political and administrative meetings are held. Note the loudspeaker for announcing communal events and meetings.
A view of Ginnedhari looking north from the roof of Atram Lachu Patel’s house. Note that unlike most Raj Gond villages it has a planned layouts of streets at right angles.
A view of Ginnedhari looking north from the roof of Atram Lachu Patel’s house. Note that unlike most Raj Gond villages it has a planned layouts of streets at right angles.
A view looking northeast from the roof of the Atram family house, the founding family of Ginnedhari.
A view looking northeast from the roof of the Atram family house, the founding family of Ginnedhari.
A view looking north from the roof of the Atram family house, the founding family of Ginnedhari. It is in the centre of the village.
A view looking north from the roof of the Atram family house, the founding family of Ginnedhari. It is in the centre of the village.

Ginnedhari

Institutions, schools,  major national events and views of the village, where I stayed for 18 months.

Guddipet

A village 2 miles southwest of Ginnedhari that has close relations with Ginnedhari, with a history of intermarriage. It has many large ruined temples that are believed to be the remnants of the previous Bhuiya people, who occupied the area before the Raj Gonds migrated here and dominated the area.

You can see Guddipet was not connected to electricity and had a candle powered light in the central square where the villagers gather to chat.
You can see Guddipet was not connected to electricity and had a candle powered light in the central square where the villagers gather to chat.
The headman, 'patel', of Guddipet, a good friend and informant.
The headman, 'patel', of Guddipet, a good friend and informant.
On the hill above Guddipet is an ancient Hindu temple, evidence that this village was previously a Bhuiya village before the Raj Gonds migrated into the area. This is a fascinating archaeological remnant which the Raj Gonds were proud to show to me.
On the hill above Guddipet is an ancient Hindu temple, evidence that this village was previously a Bhuiya village before the Raj Gonds migrated into the area. This is a fascinating archaeological remnant which the Raj Gonds were proud to show to me.
The view from the temple on the hill overlooking Guddipet. It shows the difference between the Tiryani valley bottom and the highland Utnur plateau on the right, to the west, which is the main Raj Gond territorial area, dominated by Marathi speakers, whereas the Tiryani valley is dominated by Telugu speakers.
The view from the temple on the hill overlooking Guddipet. It shows the difference between the Tiryani valley bottom and the highland Utnur plateau on the right, to the west, which is the main Raj Gond territorial area, dominated by Marathi speakers, whereas the Tiryani valley is dominated by Telugu speakers.
In the middle of Guddipet are the remains of an old Ruined Bhuiya Shaivite temple. Even though it is a Hindu shrine the Raj Gond adivasis still maintain and worship at it.
In the middle of Guddipet are the remains of an old Ruined Bhuiya Shaivite temple. Even though it is a Hindu shrine the Raj Gond adivasis still maintain and worship at it.
The main road from Ginnedhari entering Guddipet. Note the careful fencing around the fields to protect to crops from damage and the closeness of wild animals from the nearby forest.
The main road from Ginnedhari entering Guddipet. Note the careful fencing around the fields to protect to crops from damage and the closeness of wild animals from the nearby forest.
The heart of Guddipet, the central square surrounded by the thatched roofs of the original founders of the village.
The heart of Guddipet, the central square surrounded by the thatched roofs of the original founders of the village.
Guddipet surrounded by the main crop at that period, which was sorghum millet, 'jawaar'.
Guddipet surrounded by the main crop at that period, which was sorghum millet, 'jawaar'.
The ruins of the Bhuiya temple on the hill overlooking Guddipet.
The ruins of the Bhuiya temple on the hill overlooking Guddipet.
In the middle of Guddipet are the remains of an old Ruined Bhuiya Shaivite temple. Even though it is a Hindu shrine the Raj Gond adivasis still maintain and worship at it.
In the middle of Guddipet are the remains of an old Ruined Bhuiya Shaivite temple. Even though it is a Hindu shrine the Raj Gond adivasis still maintain and worship at it.
Cattle sheds, clustered together outside Gundala village. Note the closeness to the surrounding reserved forests.
Cattle sheds, clustered together outside Gundala village. Note the closeness to the surrounding reserved forests.
A tight cluster of bamboo and thatched houses of Gundala – a very traditional Raj Gond village.
A tight cluster of bamboo and thatched houses of Gundala – a very traditional Raj Gond village.
Gundala is to the south in Luxettipet taluq. These are the cattle sheds, clustered together outside the village. The closeness to the surrounding reserved forest is clear.
Gundala is to the south in Luxettipet taluq. These are the cattle sheds, clustered together outside the village. The closeness to the surrounding reserved forest is clear.
The cattle being taken out of their nighttime sheds for a day’s grazing in the forests and wasteland around Gundala.
The cattle being taken out of their nighttime sheds for a day’s grazing in the forests and wasteland around Gundala.
A tight cluster of bamboo and thatched houses – very traditional, in Gundala in Luxettipet taluq.
A tight cluster of bamboo and thatched houses – very traditional, in Gundala in Luxettipet taluq.
A dawn mist hanging over the fields. This shows how most Raj Gond villages have been cleared out of virgin forest, where they were originally areas of shifting cultivation that have now become islands of settled agriculture.
A dawn mist hanging over the fields. This shows how most Raj Gond villages have been cleared out of virgin forest, where they were originally areas of shifting cultivation that have now become islands of settled agriculture.

Gundala

A small Raj Gond village in Luxettipet Taluq about eight miles south of Ginnedhari.

Landscapes

Some views of the countryside in Asifabad Taluq and the Tiryani valley. This is an area of mainly Raj Gong population with many Kolam, Pradhan and Thoti villages. Many of the larger market towns like Tiryani had numerous Hindu and Muslim traders.

A view of a small Raj Gond hamlet on the lowlands of Asifabad District showing how it is surrounded by its agricultural fields set in the midst of densely forested escarpment hills that lead up to the central Utnoor plateau, the Raj Gond heartland of Adilabad District.
A view of a small Raj Gond hamlet on the lowlands of Asifabad District showing how it is surrounded by its agricultural fields set in the midst of densely forested escarpment hills that lead up to the central Utnoor plateau, the Raj Gond heartland of Adilabad District.
A typical view looking westward up the Tiryani valley towards the escarpment above which is the Utnoor plateau that is the heartland of Raj Gond settlement. Ginnedhari is in the centre of this valley.
A typical view looking westward up the Tiryani valley towards the escarpment above which is the Utnoor plateau that is the heartland of Raj Gond settlement. Ginnedhari is in the centre of this valley.
A typical view the landscape of the Tiryani valley showing wasteland in the foreground used communally for grazing, and fields in the middle ground for growing millets and pulses. In the background is the escarpment of the Utnoor uplands that is the main area of Raj Gond settlement in Adilabad District, which is distinctly different from the Telugu speaking lowlands of Asifabad.
A typical view the landscape of the Tiryani valley showing wasteland in the foreground used communally for grazing, and fields in the middle ground for growing millets and pulses. In the background is the escarpment of the Utnoor uplands that is the main area of Raj Gond settlement in Adilabad District, which is distinctly different from the Telugu speaking lowlands of Asifabad.
This was just after the heavy monsoon rains in September that had flooded and destroyed their seedling sorghum millet, 'jawaar', crop.
This was just after the heavy monsoon rains in September that had flooded and destroyed their seedling sorghum millet, 'jawaar', crop.
After heavy monsoon rains in August 1978 these 'Thoti' houses were heavily damaged.
After heavy monsoon rains in August 1978 these 'Thoti' houses were heavily damaged.
Many Thoti minstrel bards have lost their traditional means of livelihood as minstrels for the Raj Gonds and become landless peasants and live in very minimal conditions.
Many Thoti minstrel bards have lost their traditional means of livelihood as minstrels for the Raj Gonds and become landless peasants and live in very minimal conditions.

Malkepalli

A poor village of largely Thoti traditional minstrel bards, close to Tiryani market town. However situated in low lying land, close to and small river, it frequently floods in heavy monsoons.

Manikgarh Fort

This is now a ruined and uninhabited fortress that was once, from the 13th century until 1751, the feudal capital of the Raj Gond kings of Chanda, when they were defending their kingdom against inroads of the neighbouring Maratha kingdoms.

It is situated on a hilltop 28 miles north of Asifabad in Maharashtra State. In modern times the Raj Gond king has a substantial palace in Chanda.

The entrance gateway to Manikgarh Fort.
The entrance gateway to Manikgarh Fort.
A detail of the entrance gateway to Manikgarh Fort. This is now a ruined and uninhabited fortress.
A detail of the entrance gateway to Manikgarh Fort. This is now a ruined and uninhabited fortress.
The inner entrance gateway to Manikgarh Fort. This is now a ruined and uninhabited fortress that was once, in the 17th century, the feudal capital of the Raj Gond kings
The inner entrance gateway to Manikgarh Fort. This is now a ruined and uninhabited fortress that was once, in the 17th century, the feudal capital of the Raj Gond kings
A ruined sculpture of a Hindu goddess beside the path on the way up to the great ruined Manikgarh fortress.
A ruined sculpture of a Hindu goddess beside the path on the way up to the great ruined Manikgarh fortress.
The main entrance gateway to the ruins of the Manikgarh fortress. This is now a ruined and uninhabited fortress.
The main entrance gateway to the ruins of the Manikgarh fortress. This is now a ruined and uninhabited fortress.
The main entrance gateway to the ruins of the Manikgarh fortress.
The main entrance gateway to the ruins of the Manikgarh fortress.
Looking down from the ramparts of the Manikgarh fortress towards the east.
Looking down from the ramparts of the Manikgarh fortress towards the east.
An inner colonnade to the temple at the centre of the ruined Manikgarh fortress.
An inner colonnade to the temple at the centre of the ruined Manikgarh fortress.
Temple carvings of Ganesh and Vishnu on the wall of the temple at the centre of Manikgarh fortress.
Temple carvings of Ganesh and Vishnu on the wall of the temple at the centre of Manikgarh fortress.
The remains of a turret on the outer walls of Manikgarh fortress.
The remains of a turret on the outer walls of Manikgarh fortress.
The ruined arcade of the main temple at the centre of Manikgarh fortress.
The ruined arcade of the main temple at the centre of Manikgarh fortress.
A statue to Vishnu beside the path leading up to Manikgarh fortress.
A statue to Vishnu beside the path leading up to Manikgarh fortress.
A detail of the colonnade surrounding the central ruined temple in Manikgarh fortress.
A detail of the colonnade surrounding the central ruined temple in Manikgarh fortress.
Marlavai village in Utnoor Taluq, where Professor Haimendorf lived from 1944 to 1947.
Marlavai village in Utnoor Taluq, where Professor Haimendorf lived from 1944 to 1947.
The road approaching Marlavai in Utnoor Taluq where Professor Haimendorf lived from 1944 to 1947. Note the intimacy of the forests in 1978. This is high on the central plateau of Adilabad District.
The road approaching Marlavai in Utnoor Taluq where Professor Haimendorf lived from 1944 to 1947. Note the intimacy of the forests in 1978. This is high on the central plateau of Adilabad District.
The main street in Marlavai village in Utnoor Taluq, where Professor and Elizabeth Haimendorf stayed.
The main street in Marlavai village in Utnoor Taluq, where Professor and Elizabeth Haimendorf stayed.
Marlavai village, a large and important Raj Gond village in Utnoor Taluq, where Professor and Elizabeth Haimendorf stayed.
Marlavai village, a large and important Raj Gond village in Utnoor Taluq, where Professor and Elizabeth Haimendorf stayed.
The outskirts of Marlavai village.
The outskirts of Marlavai village.

Marlavai

This is the village where my professor and his wife Elizabeth and Christoph von Fürer Haimendorf lived from 1943 to 1947. It is in Utnur Taluq. While I was in Ginnedhari he spent two more years here. Unlike the Asifabad region it is on the high central granite plateau of India.

Moinda

Moinda is a small village close to Guddipet in the Ginnedhari valley some three miles from Tiryani.

The main central square in Moinda village. This small hamlet had no electricity and has a paraffin lamp in the central square. The young boys have brought the cattle back from grazing in the forests and they are now in the sheds for the night.
The main central square in Moinda village. This small hamlet had no electricity and has a paraffin lamp in the central square. The young boys have brought the cattle back from grazing in the forests and they are now in the sheds for the night.
This is a view of the main street and the bamboo walls and thatched roofs in Moinda. The main street is where most people meet and exchange news.
This is a view of the main street and the bamboo walls and thatched roofs in Moinda. The main street is where most people meet and exchange news.
A view o the hamlet of Moinda taken from the top of Guddipet hill. Beyond the nearby forest you can see the Ginnedhari valley and Ginnedhari’s nearby hamlets.
A view o the hamlet of Moinda taken from the top of Guddipet hill. Beyond the nearby forest you can see the Ginnedhari valley and Ginnedhari’s nearby hamlets.
A typical Raj Gond thatched house on the outskirts of the hamlet of Moinda with its cattle sheds just beside it.
A typical Raj Gond thatched house on the outskirts of the hamlet of Moinda with its cattle sheds just beside it.
Moinda seen from the top of Guddipet hill. To the right of the village, you can see the two thatched roofs of the village 'Persa Pen' and 'Aki Pen' shrines.
Moinda seen from the top of Guddipet hill. To the right of the village, you can see the two thatched roofs of the village 'Persa Pen' and 'Aki Pen' shrines.
Note the river that runs through Mowad and joins the Tiryani river. This enables the inhabitants to grow paddy rice.
Note the river that runs through Mowad and joins the Tiryani river. This enables the inhabitants to grow paddy rice.
A typical view across the Mowad valley showing the rain fed fields of sorghum surrounding this small hamlet in its narrow valley.
A typical view across the Mowad valley showing the rain fed fields of sorghum surrounding this small hamlet in its narrow valley.
The bamboo and straw thatched houses of this small hamlet of Mowad, close to the virgin forest and nestled amidst its fields of sorghum millet, ‘jawaar’.
The bamboo and straw thatched houses of this small hamlet of Mowad, close to the virgin forest and nestled amidst its fields of sorghum millet, ‘jawaar’.
A typical view across the Mowad valley showing the rain fed fields of sorghum scattered between patches of virgin forest.
A typical view across the Mowad valley showing the rain fed fields of sorghum scattered between patches of virgin forest.
This small hamlet of Mowad consists of one short main street with thatched roofs and plaited bamboo sheet walls – an intimate community nestled in the virgin forest.
This small hamlet of Mowad consists of one short main street with thatched roofs and plaited bamboo sheet walls – an intimate community nestled in the virgin forest.

Mowad

A small village some 11 miles northwest of Ginnedhari. It has a perennial river running through it, which makes it good for growing paddy rice. It is nestled in a narrow valley surrounded by dense virgin forest. It also has fertile black cotton, ‘regar‘ soil for cultivation sorghum, ‘jawaar‘.

Pangri Madura

This small hamlet is about five miles northwest of Ginnedhari. It consists of a few households scattered among its sorghum millet, ‘jawaar‘, fields.

You can see a man on top of his ‘machan’, watchtower, keeping watch over his ripening crop to scare away a flock of parakeets, who could decimate his crop in a short while. See the closeness of the nearby forests.
You can see a man on top of his ‘machan’, watchtower, keeping watch over his ripening crop to scare away a flock of parakeets, who could decimate his crop in a short while. See the closeness of the nearby forests.
Pangri Madura nestles in the midst of virgin forest. Each field has a ‘machan’ a watchtower in the middle to keep the crops safe from wild animals and birds from destroying their livelihood, though the crops are yet to be sown.
Pangri Madura nestles in the midst of virgin forest. Each field has a ‘machan’ a watchtower in the middle to keep the crops safe from wild animals and birds from destroying their livelihood, though the crops are yet to be sown.
The Pedda Vagu river near Nishani, northeast of Asifabad, while I was on a trip to see the ruined fort of Manikgarh on the border with Maharashtra. At this dry season the water level is low and people can easily ford it on foot.
The Pedda Vagu river near Nishani, northeast of Asifabad, while I was on a trip to see the ruined fort of Manikgarh on the border with Maharashtra. At this dry season the water level is low and people can easily ford it on foot.
The Pedda Vagu river near Nishani, northeast of Asifabad town while I was on a trip to see the ruined fort of Manikgarh. At this season the water level is low, the river bed is full of rushes. People can ford it on foot.
The Pedda Vagu river near Nishani, northeast of Asifabad town while I was on a trip to see the ruined fort of Manikgarh. At this season the water level is low, the river bed is full of rushes. People can ford it on foot.

Pedda Vagu river

‘Pedda Vagu‘ simply means Large River in the Gondi language. It runs west to east about a mile north of Asifabad. All the rivers and streams of the Asifabad plains run into the ‘Pedda Vagu’. It varies from a shallow river to a raging torrent in the monsoons.

Rebena, Sitaramji

Rebenna has become a large market town with many non-adivasi traders and shopkeepers, on the main road from Asifabad to Mancherial. It is the home town of a Raj Gond aristocrat called Sitaramji.

Sitaramji’s family were the headmen of Rebbena. This village found itself on the side of the main road from Mancherial to Asifabad. Rebbena became a major shopping town, populated by Hindu non-tribals. Sitaramji, the Raj Gond headman, ‘patel’, on the left of this photo, and his family became wealthy by charging rents and built this large masonry and concrete house.
Sitaramji’s family were the headmen of Rebbena. This village found itself on the side of the main road from Mancherial to Asifabad. Rebbena became a major shopping town, populated by Hindu non-tribals. Sitaramji, the Raj Gond headman, ‘patel’, on the left of this photo, and his family became wealthy by charging rents and built this large masonry and concrete house.
Rompalli is a large village with many hamlets, a shop, and many non-adivasis inhabitants. In the main street this family are building a second storey to their bamboo house as a storage room.
Rompalli is a large village with many hamlets, a shop, and many non-adivasis inhabitants. In the main street this family are building a second storey to their bamboo house as a storage room.
Village elders seated on the verandah outside a house in the main street of Rompalli.
Village elders seated on the verandah outside a house in the main street of Rompalli.
A group photo of the inhabitants of Rompalli. In the centre of the second row, with curly black hair, is Ada Jalpati Rao. He was the son of the headman and later became the headman, ‘patel’, with his son on his knee. He was educated and spoke English. He became my interpreter and researcher. He later gave some of his family land for a high school.
A group photo of the inhabitants of Rompalli. In the centre of the second row, with curly black hair, is Ada Jalpati Rao. He was the son of the headman and later became the headman, ‘patel’, with his son on his knee. He was educated and spoke English. He became my interpreter and researcher. He later gave some of his family land for a high school.
A small hamlet of Rompalli village with many cattle sheds. This shows the landscape well and the closeness of the virgin forests.
A small hamlet of Rompalli village with many cattle sheds. This shows the landscape well and the closeness of the virgin forests.
Approaching Rompalli village by cattle cart. This shows the surrounding millet or sorghum fields with their watchtowers and cattle grazing on the millet stubble.
Approaching Rompalli village by cattle cart. This shows the surrounding millet or sorghum fields with their watchtowers and cattle grazing on the millet stubble.
The Aki Pen shrine in Rompalli, where they are making an offering to the deity in thanks for the success of the millet sorghum, ‘jawaar’ harvest. The men and boys are present and the ‘katora’, the village priest officiates.
The Aki Pen shrine in Rompalli, where they are making an offering to the deity in thanks for the success of the millet sorghum, ‘jawaar’ harvest. The men and boys are present and the ‘katora’, the village priest officiates.
Looking down into the main street of Rompalli village and the panchayat house. Note that this large village was electrified in 1978.
Looking down into the main street of Rompalli village and the panchayat house. Note that this large village was electrified in 1978.
The village priest ‘katora’ of Rompalli village performing the ritual thanksgiving for the new crop of millet sorghum to Aki Pen. Note the large number of pottery votive offerings, each one implying the disease that needs healing.
The village priest ‘katora’ of Rompalli village performing the ritual thanksgiving for the new crop of millet sorghum to Aki Pen. Note the large number of pottery votive offerings, each one implying the disease that needs healing.
The offering of thanksgiving to the 'Aki Pen' for this year’s good millet or sorghum harvest in Rompalli. Note the Pardhan minstrels playing the 'pepre' and the 'bonga' oboes. On the right a man is cooking the feast that they will all enjoy later.
The offering of thanksgiving to the 'Aki Pen' for this year’s good millet or sorghum harvest in Rompalli. Note the Pardhan minstrels playing the 'pepre' and the 'bonga' oboes. On the right a man is cooking the feast that they will all enjoy later.
The Rompalli village ‘dakua’, messenger, prepares the feast that they will eat after the thanksgiving ceremony to 'Aki Pen' for the year’s millet harvest. Note the large quantity of millet that is being cooked.
The Rompalli village ‘dakua’, messenger, prepares the feast that they will eat after the thanksgiving ceremony to 'Aki Pen' for the year’s millet harvest. Note the large quantity of millet that is being cooked.
The thanksgiving ceremony to 'Aki Pen' in Rompalli for the year’s millet harvest, when everyone receives the blessing of the deity.
The thanksgiving ceremony to 'Aki Pen' in Rompalli for the year’s millet harvest, when everyone receives the blessing of the deity.
A portrait of the headman, ‘patel’, of Rompalli, who is the father of Ada Jalpati Rao, my informant and interpreter.
A portrait of the headman, ‘patel’, of Rompalli, who is the father of Ada Jalpati Rao, my informant and interpreter.
Bringing the yoked plough bullocks back into Rompalli village after a day ploughing the fields after the millet harvest, to prepare the soil for the winter ‘ragi’ crop.
Bringing the yoked plough bullocks back into Rompalli village after a day ploughing the fields after the millet harvest, to prepare the soil for the winter ‘ragi’ crop.
The view northwards from a hilltop over the Rompalli valley.
The view northwards from a hilltop over the Rompalli valley.
The schoolmaster of the primary school in Rompalli with his students and the women who prepare the free midday meal.
The schoolmaster of the primary school in Rompalli with his students and the women who prepare the free midday meal.

Rompalli

This large Raj Gond village is ten miles south of Ginnedhari in Luxettipet Taluq. The Ada clan are the headmen. It  is the home town of Ada Jalpatirao, who was my researcher and translator. Many of the farmers here were landless labourers on their ancestral land, which they had mortgaged to a nearby Hindu moneylender from Mandamari, called Madavarao. However the forward thinking headmen had started a primary school in the village. It now has a leading high school.

SamthulaGundam waterfall

Also called the Savattigungam falls. These magnificent waterfalls lie on the edge of the central Indian granite massif, called ‘Gondwanaland‘, which here drops the the eastern coastal plains. It is 11 mile northwest of Ginnedhari. During the monsoon rains this is a massive torrent on a side stream of the Vatti Vagu river.

The Savattigundam Waterfalls but not during the monsoon season.
The Savattigundam Waterfalls but not during the monsoon season.
These magnificent waterfalls are on a side stream of the Vatti Vagu river on the road from Asifabad to Ginnedhari. Here Abdul Majid, my translator and the former headmaster of the Ginnedhari school, enjoys the sight but not during the monsoon rains.
These magnificent waterfalls are on a side stream of the Vatti Vagu river on the road from Asifabad to Ginnedhari. Here Abdul Majid, my translator and the former headmaster of the Ginnedhari school, enjoys the sight but not during the monsoon rains.
A formal image of the Kolam inhabitants of Sungapur village. In the centre is Tekam Katti, the village headman, ‘patel’. Second on his right is his son Tekam Bhimu, who looked after me and was an important informant on the customs of the Kolam people, who are closely related to the Raj Gonds.
A formal image of the Kolam inhabitants of Sungapur village. In the centre is Tekam Katti, the village headman, ‘patel’. Second on his right is his son Tekam Bhimu, who looked after me and was an important informant on the customs of the Kolam people, who are closely related to the Raj Gonds.

Sungapur

This was a particularly large Kolam village about 3 miles northwest of Ginnedhari. The headman was Tekam Katti Patel, with his son Tekam Bhim Patel.  The village then had no school, but it is now electrified and has a high school. The Kolam people are ‘Adivasi‘ tribals and have a close relationship with the Raj Gonds. They share in many common religious practices and ceremonies, especially that of ‘Dandari‘. The Kolam tribe are renowned for their use of forest produce and collecting wild bee honey. 

Vatti Vagu river

This river drains the valleys south of Asifabad and flows into the Pedda Vagu river just north of Asifabad. Today it has been been dammed to create the Vatti Vagu reservoir, that has flooded a number of Rag Gond villages. I always had to cross it on my journey from Ginnedhari to Asifabad. While it is easily fordable for most of the year, it becomes a torrent in the monsoons. Today there are new and extensive coal mines just southwest of the reservoir feeding the steel furnaces at Bellampalli.

The rough road south from Asifabad to Tiryani crosses the Vatti Vagu river here. All the local Raj Gonds bring their flocks of goats and cattle here to water them. Looking southwards you can see the forested hills, beyond which is the village of Ginnedhari .
The rough road south from Asifabad to Tiryani crosses the Vatti Vagu river here. All the local Raj Gonds bring their flocks of goats and cattle here to water them. Looking southwards you can see the forested hills, beyond which is the village of Ginnedhari .
Just south of Asifabad, on the road to Ginnedhari, is the Vatti Vagu river, meaning ‘Big River’. Nowadays there is a tarmac road and a bridge here. But in 1977 there was only a ford where all the local Raj Gonds watered their flocks and could wade across in the dry season.
Just south of Asifabad, on the road to Ginnedhari, is the Vatti Vagu river, meaning ‘Big River’. Nowadays there is a tarmac road and a bridge here. But in 1977 there was only a ford where all the local Raj Gonds watered their flocks and could wade across in the dry season.
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